Albania’s capital, Tirana, has become a truly cosmopolitan European capital, brilliantly juxtaposing Ottoman architecture and dazzling, contemporary buildings. Elsewhere, the country packs in jaw-dropping mountains and pristine beaches, incredible lakes harbouring world-class birdlife, historical Roman ruins and towns dating back half a millennium.
The cultural, entertainment and political centre of Albania, Tirana is fast becoming one of Europe's most enticing capitals, a city of eclectic architecture, idiosyncratic museums, and palpable energy, which is largely manifest in its street pavement cafes and pulsating nightlife. The boundless hospitality of its people, meanwhile, is likely to leave a strong impression.
The city centres on vast Skanderbeg Square, dominated by a handsome clock tower whose ninety steps can be climbed for superlative citywide views. Here too, is the all-encompassing National Historical Museum, famed above all for the mural above the entrance which depicts the march of Albanian history. The city’s standout site, though, is the Et’hem Bey Mosque, a late 18th-century masterpiece sporting a beautif
Saranda itself is a charismatic small town and self-styled 'capital' of the riviera, known for its energetic nightlife. Nearby Ksamil, meanwhile, possesses some of the coast's loveliest, most family-friendly beaches; you can even swim out to a handful of offshore islands from here. Finally, lying in the foothills of the Ceraunian Mountains, Vlore's charming old town harbours some splendid Ottoman architecture, not least a superb 16th-century mosque - and, of course, you can also swim here.
Sharing its pristine waters with Montenegro, Lake Skadar (Shkodra) is the larges
As much as Albanians enjoy their raki, or brandy, coffee remains king here, the preferred method of consumption being Turkish-style, with thick grounds settled at the bottom. It’s served in tiny cups with a glass of water and something sweet to nibble on. Any traditional Turkish will satisfy both those looking to sample a Turkish-style drink and those for whom an espresso or latte is more to their liking.
Spit-roasted lamb is the traditional dish of choice, although just as popular are qebab (kebabs) and qoftë (grilled lamb rissoles), which are often served with a bowl of kos (yoghurt). Some of the most delicious lamb dishes in Tirana are served at Oda (meaning 'guest room'), occupying an atmospheric dwelling with a fabulous garden terrace.
A vibrant, colourful dish, fërgesë is a delicious mix of paprika, cheese, eggs, onions and tomatoes (and sometimes meat) prepared in an earthenware pot. To sample thi
With such a fabulous coastline, it's no surprise that seafood features heavily on many menus. est of all is supe peshku (fish soup), a delicious, transparent broth whose main ingredient is sea bass, which is then mixed in with fresh vegetables like zucchini, carrots, white beans and leeks.
Not to be missed is a trip to the coast and the country’s superb beaches, which have become justifiably popular. The pick of Albania’s many gorgeous, sun-soaked resorts are Dhërmiu and Drymadë, and with far fewer crowds than any other part of the Adriatic, there’s ample space to park your towel.
Keen hikers and climbers will enjoy tramping the memorably named Accursed Mountains, a region of wild, saw-toothed peaks bordering Montenegro. Beautiful and challenging, the standout hike here is the one from Theth to Valbona, a distance of some 17km. No less stunning is the Llogara National Park, whose trails offer enticing seascapes for much of the way.
For a flavour of Albania’s true pulse, make for the mountainous hinterland and the UNESCO-listed villages of Berat and Gjirokastra, the former known as the ‘town of a thousand windows’ owing to the mass of tiny glass planes that reflect off the hillside buildings, the latter showcasing some superlative Ottoman-era architecture.
Festivals play a key part in Albanian cultural life, none more so than Kala, the most enjoyable of several small boutique dance festivals along the Albanian Riviera – this takes place on Dhërmi’s silky sands at the end of May. Unum, in Shengjin at the beginning of June, is another keenly anticipated techno fest. Slightly more serene is the Tomato Festival in Shëngjergj village, although it’s about much more than just the red crop, with folk dancing and music creating a jolly atmosphere. One of the real joys of attending this festival is t
One of Albania's most irreristible hidden gems is the evocatively named "Blue Eye". Set within a remote grove between Gjirokastra and Saranda, this underwater spring forms a pool of deepest blue which has to be seen to be believed.
Dispersed over a wild, forested peninsula a few miles shy of the Greek border, meanwhile, Butrint seems to distil more than 3,000 years of successive civilisations into one vast open-air museum: towering Illyrian walls, ancient Greek amphitheatres and temples, Roman bathhouses, Byzantine basilicas and so much more. The site is best appreciated from the looped footpath, but also be sure to head up to the Acropolis for a wonderful vista and a museum full of unearthed artefacts. Wear comfortable shoes – this is one enormous site.
Tucked away in a beautiful gorge of the Lengarica Canyon in southern Albania, the Benja Hot Springs comprise a series of crashing pools, each with its own depth and temperature – it’s believed that these waters possess curative properties.
A long finger of land jutting out into the Adriatic, the Karaburun Peninsula is only reachable by foot or by sea. From Vlore, boats make the trip out to Haxhi Ali, Albania’s largest sea cave whose mysterious, darkened grotto conceals a miniature jungle of fantastically shaped stalagmites and stalactites.
One of Europe’s great boat trips is the Lake Koman ferry, which plies the smooth, blue-green waters up to Fierza – or, if you’re feeling more adventurous, join a kayak tour on the lake, which includes lunch.
Albanian is an Indo-European language spoken both here and in neighbouring Kosovo. A few words that will come in useful include tungjatjeta (hello), mirupafshim (goodbye), ju lutem (please), and faleminderit (thank you) and gëzuar! (cheers!). One of the idiosyncrasies of the language is the Albanian habit of shaking one’s head to mean yes, and nodding for no.
Published: January 31, 2024
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